As I pulled out the spice tins, their combination reminded me of Julie Sahni’s ande ki kari (egg curry), which I adapted for this column a few years ago. There are myriad versions of egg curry across India, just as there are endless variations on eggs in purgatory and shakshuka. So, for my dinner on that cold and hectic night, I cherry-picked elements of each egg dish to suit myself. One note about those canned tomatoes: Although any kind will work, canned cherry tomatoes are my favorite here, giving the dish a particularly sweet flavor and chunky texture. Or, if you’re making this in tomato season, substitute chopped fresh tomatoes, making sure to cook them a few minutes longer so they break down.

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Persons: Julie Sahni’s ande ki Locations: India